Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by skinz1234, Jul 5, 2012.
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Jul 5, 2012#1
skinz1234Bobtail Member
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- Feb 3, 2012
- Pensacola, FL, U.S.A.
- 0
Can anyone make a copy of theirs?
Is there a fusebox anywhere because behind the panel there are only breakers and relays but no fuses?
skinz1234,Jul 5, 2012
skinz1234,Jul 5, 2012
#1
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Jul 5, 2012#2
Semi CrazyRoad Train Member
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- May 13, 2011
- Middle Tennessee
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It's all in that center panel. They don't use fuses, just relays and those circuit breakers that automatically reset. Any fuses were added by someone else.
What circuit are you looking for? I can look up the wire number.
There are several diagrams depending on options such as DRLs, engine brand, etc.
Semi Crazy,Jul 5, 2012
Semi Crazy,Jul 5, 2012
#2
Jul 5, 2012#3
There are pages and pages of diagrams for that truck. Need vin and component. Otherwise I suggest paying a one day fee to Mitchell's tractor-trailer.net site and download all the diagrams.
Shaggy76,Jul 5, 2012
Shaggy76,Jul 5, 2012
#3
Jul 10, 2012#4
skinz1234Bobtail Member
- 19
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- Feb 3, 2012
- Pensacola, FL, U.S.A.
- 0
Hey Ya'LL thanks for the replys. My VIN is 711742. My problem is when I turn off the ignition my guages dont drop and its sucking my battery juice when turned off. FUEL, VOLTAGE, AND TEMP dont drop. Are they connected to a relay or circuit breaker?
skinz1234,Jul 10, 2012
skinz1234,Jul 10, 2012
#4
Jul 11, 2012#5
Semi CrazyRoad Train Member
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- May 13, 2011
- Middle Tennessee
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Key switches wear out and they are cheap. Try disconnecting hot wire from key switch and see if gauges turn off.
If you don't own a test light already, buy one.
Semi Crazy,Jul 11, 2012
Semi Crazy,Jul 11, 2012
#5
Intothesunset and skinz1234 Thank this.
Jul 12, 2012#6
Shaggy76Heavy Load Member
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- Feb 22, 2012
- Orlando, FL
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Sounds completely like the key switch. Those three gauges are wired into ignition wire of switch. I bet if you had switch off, took test light to green wire with orange stripe, it will light up. When switch is off, it shouldn't light up. Very common problem. Switch is cheap, like around $60. If too much for your budget, put a kill switch on yellow wire that feeds ignition switch.
On your other question, they are all tied to your panel fuse. In your fuse box, you should have a 15 amp fuse marked panel or cluster. It controls the voltage going to cluster from switch.
Now that I have vin, I'll get on Daimler and see if I can find a diagram of that circuit for you.
Shaggy76,Jul 12, 2012
Shaggy76,Jul 12, 2012
#6
Intothesunset and skinz1234 Thank this.
Jul 15, 2012#7
skinz1234Bobtail Member
- 19
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- Feb 3, 2012
- Pensacola, FL, U.S.A.
- 0
FIXED IT!!! Was a dang relay. Started swapping em out behind the wall in front of the shifter and WHAPPP!!! HIGH SPEED STARTED WORKING ON THE BLOWER!!! Love it when you get lucky like that! Ever find the wiring diagram so i have it for future reference? Also need the diagram for my AC SYSTEM. For the cab and the sleeper. Shes still not getting as cold as she should be nor is she blowing strong enough especially in the sleeper.
skinz1234,Jul 15, 2012
skinz1234,Jul 15, 2012
#7
fargonaz Thanks this.
Jul 16, 2012#8
Semi CrazyRoad Train Member
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- May 13, 2011
- Middle Tennessee
- 0
After a few years lint and pet hair gets jammed up between the heater core and the evaporator coil. No fix except take box apart and clean it out. Old insulation will crumble so it's good idea to have some kind of foam you can cut to fit in as a replacement. I used an old camping sleeping pad.
Semi Crazy,Jul 16, 2012
Semi Crazy,Jul 16, 2012
#8
Intothesunset Thanks this.
Aug 7, 2012#9
PeterLinerBobtail Member
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- Aug 4, 2012
- 0
The wiring diagram(wall chart) is still available for your truck through your Freightliner dealer(thats where I "got" mine) and they are really not that expensive. My suggestion is not to buy the "wallchart". Buy the FLD/... customer workshop manual. It has all the schematics that pertain to the FLD Classic. About $200-250. The wall chart is @$50-100(and everything on it was in the book), but slightly limited in "use". The service manual gives relay/circuit breaker layouts as well as,troubleshooting, etc. Plus everything else on the truckside. Good info From Semi Crazy as well. Unfortunately I can not email/post the PDF's it is a violation of copyright laws.
Last edited: Aug 7, 2012
PeterLiner,Aug 7, 2012
PeterLiner,Aug 7, 2012
#9
Nov 22, 2012#10
carrkoolHeavy Load Member
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- May 10, 2012
- adah, pa
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Maybe someone can help me. I have rewired many fld series but on the truck i just bought i have never never seen this setup and dont like it. to start my truck i have to turn the key to to on flip and hold up the backup alarm switch and push the start button. off the button wire 15 runs to the back up alarm middle pole from there it has 3 wires one on the bottom side and 2 on the top side. this is all factory according to frieghtliner but i dont want it to be. I want to rewire to a NORMAL frieghtliner to turn key and push button. The truck is a 96 classic with 60 series 500. I know i can gut out the switch and rewire it normal but i want to make sure this is not tied in to anything else other than the backup alarm that does not work and i dont want to work
Also I have not gotten to look at this other truck my father has but maybe someone has seen this issue. when he got it to start you had to turn the key to acc push the start button till it turned over fast than hurry and flip the key to on. they messed with it and got it to start normal but now he has power to the sylonid when the key is OFF.....this one i know i could test out but hoping someone has seen and can get to the problem alittle faster in this cold weather....its a 2000 classic
Thanks everyone
carrkool,Nov 22, 2012
carrkool,Nov 22, 2012
#10
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